Iquitos, the largest city in the Peruvian Amazon, cannot be reached by road from the rest of Peru. Almost every visitor flies from Lima, a flight of about two hours. The alternative is a riverboat journey of several days from Pucallpa or Yurimaguas, which is a real adventure, with hammocks, basic food and unpredictable timing, and suits only flexible and well-prepared travellers.
By air
Several flights a day link Lima and Iquitos, taking about two hours. The airport is close to the city, a short taxi or mototaxi ride from the centre. This is the answer for nearly everyone: it is fast, reliable by Amazon standards and not much more expensive than a few days of riverboat travel. Book early for high season, roughly June to September, when the river is lower and the weather drier. Weather can occasionally delay flights, so keep a spare day at the end of the trip.
You will arrive in a hot, humid, low-lying city with no altitude issue at all, a sharp contrast to Cusco. Domestic flights explains luggage rules and what to do about delays.
By river
The city sits on the Amazon, and the river is the highway. Cargo and passenger boats run on the Ucayali river from Pucallpa and on the Huallaga and Marañón rivers from Yurimaguas. The trip from Yurimaguas takes about two to four days, and from Pucallpa about three to six, depending on the river level, the boat and the number of stops. Both Pucallpa and Yurimaguas have road connections to the rest of Peru, so a traveller can take buses there from Lima, Tarapoto or the north and continue on the water.
On board you sleep in a hammock you bring or buy, or pay for a basic cabin on some boats. Food is simple. Keep valuables on you, bring insect repellent, drinking water and a padlock. Departures change with cargo and water, and boats leave when ready, not on a schedule. The boats are crowded and have little privacy.
Which to choose
Fly in. If you want the river journey as an experience, take it one way, flying out. Many lodges and cruises on the Amazon start in Iquitos, so booking a flight with a margin before and after is more sensible than relying on boats.
The decision comes down to what the river means for your trip. If the Amazon is your main reason for coming to Peru, a boat journey gives you time on the water and a window on life along the banks. If it is one stop among many, the flight preserves days for the rest of your route. The comparison of where to go in the Amazon helps place Iquitos among the alternatives.
Arriving in Iquitos
The city is hot and humid all year, with short heavy rain at any season. Mototaxis are the main way of getting around, and the fares are modest, but agree the price first. Ask your hotel or lodge whether a pickup is included. Lodges and cruises often meet guests at the airport or at a nearby dock.
Plan a night in the city before heading into the forest if your tour starts early, and another on the way out so a flight delay does not cost you the connection home. Where to stay in Iquitos compares areas, and for the city's markets and riverfront, see Iquitos.
Going into the forest
Most visitors use Iquitos as a base for trips into the rainforest, by boat on the Amazon and its tributaries. The reserve of Pacaya-Samiria is a flooded forest reached by river, and lodges and small cruises offer stays of several days. Check what a tour includes, who runs it, and what the safety equipment and the medical arrangements are.
Distances on the river are measured in hours of boat travel, not kilometres, and the timing changes with the water level. Pacaya-Samiria describes the reserve, and Iquitos tours explains how trips are organised.
Health and preparation
A trip to the Amazon needs advance planning. See a doctor or travel clinic several weeks before departure to discuss vaccines, malaria prevention and insect protection. Carry a first-aid kit, repellent and any prescription medication, and keep them in waterproof bags.
Health and vaccines is a starting point, but personal advice must come from a professional. Travel insurance that covers remote destinations is worth checking, as medical care in the forest is limited and evacuation can be expensive.
Frequently asked questions
Is there a road to Iquitos?
No. Iquitos is reached only by air or by river.
How long is the flight from Lima to Iquitos?
About two hours.
Is the riverboat journey worth it?
For adventurous travellers with time, yes. It is slow and basic, so most visitors prefer to fly.
Can I fly to Iquitos from Cusco?
Usually via Lima, which makes a long day. Allow a buffer for the connection.
What should I pack for a riverboat?
A hammock, a light blanket for night, mosquito repellent, a padlock, drinking water and snacks. Keep valuables on you and documents in a waterproof bag.
Is Iquitos safe?
It is a busy, hot city where normal precautions apply: watch your bag, use mototaxis with an agreed fare, and avoid isolated areas at night. See the safety.
When is the best time to visit?
The drier months, roughly June to September, are popular, with lower water. The rest of the year brings higher rivers and more rain, which suits some types of trip, such as flooded-forest boat trips.