December mixes summer on the coast with the start of the main rainy season in the Andes. Lima and the northern beaches are sunny, Cusco hosts its Christmas craft market, Santurantikuy, on 24 December, and the Amazon is hot and wet. Prices and demand jump in the last ten days for Christmas and New Year, so book those dates early and keep mountain plans flexible.
Two Decembers
It helps to split the month in two. The first two or three weeks are a quiet, fairly cheap time to travel, with Christmas lights, summer arriving on the coast and rain building in the mountains. The last ten days, from about 20 December to the first days of January, are one of the most expensive and crowded periods of the year, as Peruvians travel to see family and foreign visitors arrive for the holidays. Flights, buses and beach hotels sell out.
If your dates are fixed around Christmas, book flights, accommodation and Machu Picchu entry as early as possible, and expect minimum-stay rules and higher rates in many hotels. Peru's festivals and holidays lists the public holidays that affect services.
Santurantikuy in Cusco
On 24 December, Cusco's Plaza de Armas fills with the Santurantikuy market, whose name in Quechua means roughly the sale of saints. Craftspeople from the region sell nativity figures, small carved and moulded saints, and decorations, and families buy figures for their Christmas nativity scenes. The atmosphere is lively and the best pieces are handmade, so it is a good place to buy gifts if you ask about the maker and compare prices. Arrive early, as stalls fill up quickly and the square gets crowded.
Christmas Eve is a family evening, and many restaurants close or reduce hours on 24 and 25 December. Do not rely on a specific place being open. For how to buy crafts well, see souvenirs.
Weather by region
Lima is sunny, warm and beach-ready, with the cloud gone for the season. The north coast is hot and sunny. In the southern Andes the rains are set in: showers arrive most afternoons, and Machu Picchu can be misty, though the site is not as crowded as in mid-year. Landslides can occur on mountain roads, and delays on trains and buses are more likely than in the dry season.
The Amazon is hot and humid, with high rivers and plentiful insects. Lake Titicaca and Arequipa are milder, with scattered storms. The Cordillera Blanca is out of trekking season. For the broader pattern, see the rainy season.
Beaches in December
December is the start of the beach season. The coast around Máncora has hot sun and warm water, and the beaches south of Lima fill at weekends. Peruvian families begin their summer holidays, and by the last week of the month coastal hotels are heavily booked.
A good strategy is to take the beach in the first half of the month and the mountains first, so that the coast closes the trip. Buses and flights between Lima and the north fill before Christmas, and prices rise. Book early for any beach town, and if you arrive without a booking, avoid weekends.
Machu Picchu and treks in December
Machu Picchu is open, and the first half of December is considerably quieter than the dry months. Showers are likely on most days, so expect mist and a greener site, with a reasonable chance of a clear morning. The weeks around Christmas and New Year bring more visitors, and train and entry availability tighten.
The Inca Trail runs until the February closure, with wet and slippery sections. Other treks are possible but demanding, and high passes can bring cold rain or snow. Landslides on the road or rail line are a real risk, so avoid putting a flight directly after your visit. For more detail, see Machu Picchu weather.
Pack and plan
Bring a rain jacket and waterproof footwear for the highlands, summer clothes and strong sun protection for the coast, and warm layers for evenings in the mountains. Carry some cash for markets and small purchases. Leave slack before flights home in January, because weather disruption in the mountains is a real possibility.
For a full mixed-climate kit, see packing list. If you travel in the final week, also reserve restaurants for 24 and 31 December, since many places have set menus or close early.
Frequently asked questions
Is December a good time for the beach in Peru?
Yes. The central and northern coast are sunny and warm, and December is the start of the beach season.
What is Santurantikuy?
A craft market held in Cusco on 24 December, selling nativity figures and Christmas decorations.
Are Christmas and New Year expensive?
Yes. The last ten days of December have the highest prices and the least availability.
Is December a good month for Machu Picchu?
It is a wet month, with the first half quieter and the last week busy. Expect mist and showers, and keep a spare day before your flight.
Are shops and restaurants open on Christmas Day?
Many close or reduce hours on 24 and 25 December and again on 1 January. Have a backup plan for meals.
Why do people wear yellow at New Year?
In Peru yellow underwear is thought to bring luck and prosperity for the coming year. Shops and street stalls sell it in the days before 31 December.
Is December cheaper than January?
The first part of December is cheaper, but the last ten days are among the most expensive of the year. January is quieter in the mountains once New Year travel has passed.