The Ballestas Islands are small, rocky islets off the Paracas coast, visited on a boat trip from the Paracas pier. Expect sea lions, large numbers of seabirds, sea caves and, with luck, Humboldt penguins. The trip lasts around two hours, you cannot land on the islands, and it is best to go in the morning, when the sea is calmer. Wrap up and protect your head from the sun.
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What you will see
The boats head out across the bay, and the first stop is usually the Candelabra, a large figure drawn on a sandy hillside facing the sea. Its origin and age are not settled: it is often linked to pre-Hispanic cultures of the area, but other explanations exist, and guides may present theories as fact. Treat the details with caution.
The islands themselves are the main attraction. Rock arches and sea caves frame the approach, and the cliffs are covered with seabirds. Boats pass close to colonies of sea lions, lying on rocks or swimming near the boat. Other birds include cormorants, boobies and pelicans, and Humboldt penguins are sometimes seen, though not guaranteed.
The islands are home to enormous amounts of guano, bird droppings that were once harvested as fertiliser and were an important export in the 19th century. The smell is noticeable, so be prepared.
The boat trip
Tours leave from the pier at Paracas and generally last about two hours, which includes the sailing out, time near the islands and the return. Boats are small and fast, and seating is shared. Life jackets are normally provided, and you should wear one. Check that the operator is reputable and the boat is in good condition.
Visiting the islands is regulated to protect the wildlife, and landing is not allowed, so the experience is from the water. Bring a camera, but keep it safe from spray.
The sea can be choppy, particularly later in the day, and some people feel seasick. Morning tours tend to be calmer and have better light, and trips may be cancelled when the port authority closes the sea for safety reasons. In that case, a refund or rebooking is the usual solution, so ask about the policy when you book.
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The wildlife and why it is here
The abundance of animals comes from the sea. A cold current runs along the Peruvian coast and brings nutrient-rich water close to the surface, which supports huge shoals of small fish. Sea lions, penguins and the many seabirds feed on them, and the dry, rocky islands offer safe places to rest and nest.
Because the numbers are so high, the islands have long been valued for their guano, and the deposits that built up over centuries explain the pale colour of many rocks. Today the islands are protected, with limits on access and landing, and the wildlife is the reason visitors come.
Wildlife is never on schedule. Sea lions are usually easy to find, birds are numerous, and penguins are a possibility rather than a promise. A pair of binoculars improves the experience, particularly for the birds on the upper cliffs. Keep your voice low as you approach colonies, and follow the boat crew's instructions about distance.
Choosing a tour and a time of day
Many operators in Paracas run the same basic route, so the differences are in comfort, timing and group size. Ask about the size of the boat, whether it has a roof or shade, whether life jackets are provided and whether the trip includes the entrance fee for the protected area. Paracas tours explains the options and the questions worth asking.
Early departures are usually calmer and have better light, with a clearer horizon for photographs. Later departures can be rougher, and the afternoon wind kicks up spray. If you are staying in town, ask your accommodation about the morning schedule and when to arrive at the pier, since there may be a short queue and some paperwork before boarding.
If your plans are tight, consider the weather. Cancellations are not unusual, so avoid building the whole day on one slot. A flexible schedule makes a cancelled boat much easier to handle, and many travellers keep an extra day in reserve for this reason.
Combining with the rest of Paracas
Most visitors do the boat trip in the morning and then visit the Paracas National Reserve by road in the late morning or afternoon. The two are very different, one being a sea-based wildlife trip and the other a desert coastline, so they combine well in a single day. You can book both through agencies in the town or at your accommodation.
Entry rules and any fees for the protected area are set locally and have changed in the past. Paracas is also a base for those continuing to Huacachina or Nazca, and the Paracas versus Huacachina comparison explains how to split your time.
For travellers coming from Lima, Lima to Paracas describes how the journey works. If you plan to see the desert drawings later, see the Nazca Lines for the options. See where to stay in Paracas.
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Paracas
Bay town with the boats to the Ballestas Islands
Frequently asked questions
How long is the Ballestas boat trip?
About two hours in total, including the journey from the pier, time around the islands and the return.
Can you land on the islands?
No. Visits are from the boat only, to protect the wildlife.
Will I see penguins?
Sometimes. Humboldt penguins live on the islands but sightings are not guaranteed. Sea lions and seabirds are almost always seen.
What is the best time of day for the Ballestas trip?
Morning is usually best because the sea is calmer and the light is better. Afternoons can be windy and rougher. Ask your operator about departure times when you book.
Is the Ballestas trip suitable for children?
Many children enjoy it, but the boats are fast and the sea can be rough. Life jackets must fit properly. Check the operator's age policy and bring layers and sun protection.
Why do trips get cancelled?
The port authority can close the sea when conditions are unsafe, and tours are then cancelled. Ask about the refund or rebooking policy, and keep a spare day in your schedule if possible.
Is the Candelabra ancient?
Its age is uncertain. It is often linked to pre-Hispanic cultures, but explanations differ and guides may state theories as facts. Treat what you hear as one possible account.
Do I need to book the Ballestas trip in advance?
In busy periods it is wise to book ahead, but many visitors arrange it a day before in Paracas. Check the options on our Paracas tours, and keep your plan flexible.
